Double Cleansing

(Image from ShuUemura.com)

I learned a great analogy during my very short time working for Clinique. It's an analogy I am going to apply to the idea of "double cleansing," something that is only starting to catch on in the Western beauty and skincare world now. Double cleansing is using a product (cleansing oil, popular in the East, or cold cream, more popular in the West) to remove your makeup before performing your skincare routine. I didn't discover this method until my late teens or early twenties, but when I did my skin improved greatly.

See, if you don't take off your makeup (all of it, not just eye makeup) before washing your face (this is where the Clinique analogy comes in) then it's like you're taking a shower with clothes on. You know when you buy salad dressing and the oil is separated from the rest of the ingredients? That's because oil and water don't mix--and guess what makes up your foundations and powders? Even if a product says oil-free, most makeup contains ingredients to keep its consistency (liquid, cream, powder, etc) a certain way. If you put some soap and water it on, not all of it will come off--that's why a lot of companies are so dead set on selling you a toner.

When you use a toner and see there is still makeup on the cotton pad, it means there is still makeup on your skin and any beneficial quality your toner may have (vitamins, exfoliators, whatever) are being blocked by that residue instead of being absorbed (though some argue toners are unnecessary, but that's another post). You want the products you spent your hard-earned cash on to work right, correct? That's where double cleansing comes in.

Now, I'm not an esthetician or a dermatologist, so it's not like I'm giving medical advice here. This is based on years of trial and error with my schizophrenic skin type. There are two things that vastly improved my skin when I discovered them: double cleansing and the Clarisonic.

Cleansing oils are cool because you rub them on your dry face and it literally melts off all of your makeup (take off your contacts before using cleansing oil!) Then, you wet your hands and start to lather the cleansing oil and it turns into a milky liquid...it does NOT stay like an oil on your face! That liquid rinses off and takes your makeup, dirt and oil right down the drain with it. NOW you are ready to do your skincare routine (thus the "Double Cleanse"). With your makeup gone your skin care will actually perform better. If you're acne-prone this will allow your medicated products to actually touch your skin--not skin and foundation residue.

I know the concept of using oil on acne-prone skin sounds weird considering everything you read in the magazines, but this isn't baby oil you're slathering on. Oil breaks down oil--remember the salad dressing! Plus, if you have sensitive skin, cleansing oils are gentler. No matter what skin care program you're using or skin type you have, a cleansing oil will prepare your skin to receive those products effectively.

I like cleansing oils instead of cold cream because of how it breaks down. Cold creams usually leave a film that is hard to get rid of and I definitely don't like it for my skin type. But hey, if it works for you (or you have dry skin) then use it! Here are some of my recommendations for cleansing oils readily available in the US or online:

MAC Cleanse Off Oil- If your skin is very oily, this is the lightest cleansing oil I have tried. It can be a bit drying, even for me. $22 USD.

DHC Deep Cleansing Oil- This one is a bit heavier and has a distinct olive oil smell, which is a trademark ingredient of this Japanese line. I would say it's a better bet for combination to normal and dry skin. Full size product is $21 USD. Travel size $12.50 USD.

Shu Uemura Cleansing Oils- These are considered the "holy grail" of cleansing oils and are the most expensive. However, there are a variety of oils for different skin types. Prices range from $65 USD and up for full sizes, but you know how I feel about Shu Uemura. Though their skincare isn't my favorite, with this product you definitely get what you pay for. Their limited edition bottles feature art by the trendy Japanese artists. If you're a packaging whore like me they can be very tempting if you can afford it!

Pick up a cleansing oil on your next shopping run and try it out, you might like it and get better skin in the long run :)